Abu Jani–Sandeep Khosla’s Bold Runway Look Sparks Debate at Art Mumbai

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, one of India’s most celebrated designer duos, recently presented a grand fashion showcase at Art Mumbai. The collection marked their 40 years in the industry and celebrated their signature blend of rich craftsmanship and modern expression. Inspired by the classic tale A Thousand and One Nights, the show brought together dramatic silhouettes, deep colours, and detailed handwork. It aimed to connect traditional Indian design with contemporary storytelling, creating a visual experience filled with glamour and fantasy.

Among the many runway looks, one outfit worn by model Nin Kala quickly became the centre of discussion. Her look featured a sheer olive anarkali paired with sparkling, embellished lingerie visible underneath. This bold styling choice brought mixed reactions from viewers online, with some admiring the creativity while others felt something was missing. The design pushed the boundaries of Indian couture and reminded audiences that fashion often evolves by challenging familiar ideas.

The anarkali worn by Nin Kala was made from translucent olive green fabric, allowing the detailed lingerie beneath to become a part of the outfit’s main design. The neckline featured an ornate keyhole style with gold finishing, while the hemline carried wide embroidered borders in rich red, green, black, and gold. These layers showcased the brand’s mastery of zardozi and traditional Indian decoration. The entire look had a royal feel, showing the designers’ strength in storytelling through clothing.

To add balance and structure, the outfit also included a deep red dupatta heavily embroidered with gold and black details. Draped across the shoulders, it created contrast against the lightness of the sheer fabric and brought more depth to the overall silhouette. This combination reflected the designers’ idea of blending old-world elegance with bold modern styling.

Social media reactions, however, were divided. Many praised the designers for continuing to innovate and present garments that feel fresh, artistic, and forward-looking. Supporters appreciated how the lingerie was used not as a hidden layer, but as a dramatic part of the entire look. Some viewers felt that the styling represented confidence and the changing direction of Indian fashion.

On the other hand, some online users felt the outfit looked incomplete. Comments suggested that the look might have needed an additional element to feel more balanced. This mixed response reflects a wider conversation about how fashion is interpreted differently by different audiences. What may feel bold and modern to one viewer may feel too unconventional to another.

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have always been known for taking risks and pushing creative boundaries. Throughout their career, they have blended Indian heritage with new ideas, never hesitating to experiment with shape, material, or styling. Their work often sparks reactions because it challenges expectations about what traditional clothing can look like in a modern world.

The show at Art Mumbai continued this artistic journey. It also celebrated the industry’s progress, reminding audiences that fashion is not just about beauty but also expression, imagination, and personal interpretation. Whether loved or debated, the look worn by Nin Kala succeeded in starting a conversation, which is something great fashion often does.

For many viewers, the collection was a reminder that couture remains a space where designers can express their creativity freely. As fashion continues to change, moments like this show how designers use their vision to reimagine familiar garments in new and surprising ways.